Sizing & Fitting Questions

Sizing & Fitting - Answers

How many measurements do you take?

We take over 40 precise measurements for a complete suit, including detailed chest, waist, hip, shoulder, arm, and leg measurements. For shirts, we take approximately 20 measurements. Each measurement is taken multiple times to ensure accuracy. Beyond basic circumferences, we measure slopes, angles, and proportional relationships to create your unique pattern. This comprehensive approach ensures every aspect of fit is considered.

What's different about bespoke measurements?

Unlike off-the-rack or even made-to-measure, bespoke measurements analyze your entire posture and body mechanics. We observe how you stand naturally, note any asymmetries, measure shoulder slopes, and assess how you move. We measure both relaxed and engaged positions to understand your body's full range. This creates a three-dimensional understanding that allows us to craft garments that move with you naturally.

How long does the measurement process take?

Initial measurements typically take 45-60 minutes for a suit or 30 minutes for a shirt. We take our time to ensure accuracy and discuss your preferences, lifestyle, and fit requirements. This isn't rushed - we want to understand not just your measurements but how you want your clothes to feel and function. Additional time may be needed for complex fittings or multiple garments.

Do you measure both sides of the body?

Absolutely! Most people have slight asymmetries between left and right sides. We measure both sides separately and note any differences in shoulder height, arm length, chest development, or stance. Our patterns account for these natural variations, ensuring the finished garment fits both sides of your body perfectly. This attention to asymmetry is a hallmark of true bespoke tailoring.

What happens at each fitting stage?

First fitting: We check the basic shape and proportions on a basted (roughly sewn) garment. Second fitting: We refine the fit with more detailed adjustments after initial corrections. Third fitting: Final details and precision adjustments before completion. Fourth fitting: Final delivery and any last-minute tweaks. Each stage builds upon the previous one, progressively refining the fit to perfection.

How do you check shoulder fit?

Shoulder fit is critical and largely cannot be altered once set. We check that the shoulder seam sits at your natural shoulder point, the armhole follows your natural arm movement, and there's no pulling or bunching across the back. We have you move your arms in various positions - reaching forward, lifting up, putting hands in pockets - to ensure comfort and mobility in all natural movements.

What if the first fitting isn't perfect?

The first fitting is rarely perfect - that's exactly why we have multiple fittings! This basted fitting allows us to see how the basic pattern works on your body and make necessary adjustments. We expect to make changes at this stage. Our master tailors have the skill to adjust virtually anything at this point, which is why the basted fitting is so crucial to the bespoke process.

Can I see the garment before it's finished?

Yes! Throughout the process, you'll see your garment in various stages of completion. At the basted fitting, you'll see the basic shape. At subsequent fittings, you'll see it with more details completed. We welcome questions about construction and enjoy explaining our techniques. This transparency is part of the bespoke experience - understanding how your garment is being crafted specifically for you.

Do you work with all body types?

Absolutely! Bespoke tailoring is particularly beneficial for those who have difficulty finding well-fitting ready-to-wear clothing. Whether you're very tall, short, athletic, slim, fuller-figured, or have unique proportions, we create patterns specifically for your body. Every body is different, and that's exactly what bespoke tailoring addresses - no body type is too challenging for our experienced tailors.

How do you handle posture issues?

We accommodate various postural characteristics including forward head position, rounded shoulders, sway back, or uneven shoulders. Our tailors analyze your natural stance and build these characteristics into the pattern. The goal is a garment that looks and feels natural on your body, not one that tries to force you into an unnatural position. This expertise in postural accommodation sets bespoke apart from other tailoring methods.

Can you accommodate physical disabilities?

Yes, we have experience working with clients who have various physical needs, including wheelchair users, prosthetics, limited mobility, or other considerations. We approach each situation individually, discussing your specific needs and preferences. Our goal is creating beautiful, functional clothing that makes you feel confident and comfortable. We welcome the opportunity to discuss how we can best serve your unique requirements.

What about very tall or short clients?

Extreme heights are where bespoke really shines! For very tall clients, we ensure proper proportions in jacket length, sleeve length, and trouser rise. For shorter clients, we optimize proportions to create a flattering silhouette. We understand how different proportions affect the overall look and adjust lapel width, button stance, pocket placement, and other details accordingly. Your height becomes an asset, not a challenge.

What if I gain or lose weight during construction?

Minor changes (5-10 lbs) can usually be accommodated through adjustments at fittings. For larger changes, we can modify the pattern accordingly - this is one advantage of the bespoke process. We build in some tolerance for weight fluctuation, and our construction methods allow for adjustments. If significant changes occur, we'll discuss the best approach to ensure your final garment fits perfectly.

How much can you adjust a finished garment?

Finished bespoke garments can be adjusted more than ready-to-wear because of how they're constructed. Trousers can typically be taken in or let out 2-3 inches at the waist, jackets can be adjusted 1-2 inches in the chest and waist. Sleeves and trouser length can be adjusted significantly. However, shoulder adjustments are very limited once completed, which is why proper fitting during construction is crucial.

What changes can be made after completion?

After completion, we can adjust fit (within limits), replace buttons, refresh linings, repair wear, and make style modifications where possible. We can shorten or lengthen garments, adjust waist suppression, and modify details like lapel width (within reason). Major style changes or significant size alterations may not be possible or cost-effective. We'll always assess what's feasible before proceeding with any alterations.

Do you keep my measurements on file?

Yes, we maintain detailed records of all your measurements, patterns, and preferences indefinitely. This includes not just measurements but notes about fit preferences, style choices, and any adjustments made. For future orders, we can use these as a starting point, though we always take fresh measurements to account for any changes. This historical record ensures consistency across all your garments over the years.

How do you determine my preferred fit?

We discuss your lifestyle, profession, personal style, and comfort preferences. We observe your current clothing choices and ask about what you like or dislike about previous garments. Some clients prefer closer fits, others more relaxed. We consider your activity level, climate, and intended use. Through consultation and fittings, we develop an understanding of your ideal fit that balances style, comfort, and function.

Can I request a specific style of fit?

Absolutely! Whether you prefer a classic English cut, Italian styling, or modern slim fit, we can adapt our patterns accordingly. We can also create fits inspired by specific periods or styles. However, we'll always recommend adjustments if a particular style wouldn't be flattering for your body type. Our expertise helps ensure that your preferred style works harmoniously with your physique.

What's the difference between classic and modern fit?

Classic fit features fuller chest and waist, higher button stance, and more traditional proportions - comfortable and timeless. Modern fit is more tailored through the torso, with higher armholes, slimmer sleeves, and contemporary proportions - sharper and more fitted. We can create variations between these extremes or combine elements of both. The choice depends on your style preference, body type, and intended use.

How do you ensure comfort in fitted garments?

Comfort comes from proper pattern making, quality construction, and understanding body movement. We ensure adequate ease where needed, use proper canvas and padding for structure without stiffness, and test mobility during fittings. The garment should feel like a second skin - fitted but never restrictive. Our experience allows us to achieve close fits that still allow full range of motion and comfort throughout the day.

How do you fit someone who carries a concealed weapon?

We have experience fitting clients who carry concealed weapons. We discuss placement and type of carry to ensure the garment accommodates this need without obvious alterations to the silhouette. We can add internal pockets, adjust the drape, or modify the fit as needed. All discussions are confidential, and we approach this professionally as simply another fitting requirement to be accommodated.

Can you accommodate medical devices or braces?

Yes, we can accommodate various medical devices, braces, prosthetics, or other medical considerations. We work closely with you to understand your needs and create garments that are both beautiful and functional. This might involve adjusting fit, adding special openings, or modifying construction methods. Our goal is ensuring you feel confident and comfortable while meeting your medical needs.

What about fitting pregnant clients?

We can create beautiful maternity wear and also garments designed to accommodate changing bodies during pregnancy. For maternity garments, we plan for growth stages and can create adjustable features. For regular garments, we can plan sizing to work both during and after pregnancy. We recommend discussing your timeline and expectations so we can plan the best approach for your needs.

How do you handle asymmetrical bodies?

Most bodies have some asymmetry, and we routinely accommodate these differences. We measure and fit each side individually, adjusting the pattern to account for differences in shoulder height, chest development, arm length, or stance. The final garment will look perfectly symmetrical when worn while actually being constructed to fit your unique asymmetries. This individual accommodation is a key advantage of bespoke tailoring.

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